"Fashion": Aperture 216

The theme for Aperture's Fall 2014 issue is "Fashion," produced in collaboration with the groundbreaking fashion-photography duo Inez & Vinoodh. The issue explores the role of image quotation and reference, and showcases contemporary and historical work from both inside and outside the field of fashion, as well as key touchstones, including breakthrough magazines and advertisements. In the Words section, Donatien Grau considers Inez & Vinoodh's long-standing collaboration; Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt in conversation with Penny Martin, editor of The Gentlewoman; curator Charlotte Cotton on the State of Fashion; Alistair O'Neill considers how the documentary tradition has influenced the work of many fashion photographers; and Marketa Uhlirova looks at how contemporary fashion films reference still photography. The Pictures section presents Tamara Berghmans on the influential Dutch photographer Ed van der Elsken; Jason Evans on Shiseido's beguiling vintage ads; Inez & Vinoodh on photographs that have served as references for painting, plus notes on the icons of fashion photography; Phil Bicker on pioneering fashion magazines i-D, The Face and Jill; and emerging fashion photographers Margaret Durow and Daniel Arnold.